Question 1

Step 1: Excavation

Accepted Answer

Remove the existing lawn and soil and excavate to 80 – 120mm below the required finished height depending on existing levels.

Question 2

Step 2: Base Preparation

Accepted Answer

If your garden suffers from poor drainage, we recommend using Dolomite rubble. Rake and level the aggregate to a depth of approximately 60mm and provide adequate slope away from the building structure and/or towards drains for drainage. It’s very important to ensure the sub-base is thoroughly compacted using a vibrating plate compactor which can also be hired from your local tool hire shop.

Question 3

Step 3: Laying Course

Accepted Answer

For the laying course, rake and level approximately 25mm of Dolomite Sand directly on top of the sub-base. Rake and level the laying course and again maintain the slope for drainage. Also ensure this is thoroughly compacted with a vibrating plate compactor. Before doing this, we recommend spraying the dolomite dust with water to keep the dust down; it also helps the aggregate to bind together.

Question 4

Step 4: Edging

Accepted Answer

If there’s not an existing hard edge or wall around the perimeter of your lawn, you’ll need to install some form of edging. For this, you can use either treated timber, steel or Aluminium edging, timber sleepers or brick/block paving. We recommend using Aluminium edging. Its flexible to bend to required shape, rust free, long lasting and economical.

Question 5

Step 5: Additional Weed Protection

Accepted Answer

Install a further layer of weed membrane, not only as extra protection against weeds but also as it helps to protect the underside of your artificial grass. Overlap the edges of weed membrane to ensure weeds cannot penetrate between two pieces. Pin the membrane either to the edging or as close to it as possible and trim any excess. It’s very important to ensure the membrane is laid flat as any ripples may be visible through your artificial grass.

NOTE: If you have a dog or pet that will be using your artificial lawn, we recommend that you DO NOT install this additional layer of membrane as it can potentially trap nasty odours from urine.

Question 6

Step 6: Unroll Your A1 Artificial Grass

Accepted Answer

Good quality artificial grass always be heavier as it has more tufts and is made using higher grade of materials so you’ll probably need some help at this point. Also stitches of artificial grass are sharp and can scratch and/or cut your skin so use appropriate protection such as gloves and enclosed shoes. If possible, place the grass in position so that the pile direction is facing towards your house or main viewpoint as this tends to be the best side to view the grass from. If you have two rolls of grass, ensure the pile direction is facing the same way on both pieces. Before cutting anything, ensure there aren’t any ripples in the grass and leave it for a couple of hours to acclimatise.

Question 7

Step 7: Secure Any Joints

Accepted Answer

If done correctly, the joints should not be visible. Firstly, line up both pieces of grass ensuring that the pile direction is facing the same way and that they run parallel to each other. Fold back both pieces of grass by around 300mm to reveal the latex backing. Cut off 1 stitch from each piece of grass, being careful to ensure you cut in a straight line. Then lay each piece flat again and check that the edges of the two pieces of grass meet. There should be a consistent 1–2mm gap. Once both pieces are properly positioned, fold the grass back over again to reveal the latex backing.

Next, roll out the joining tape between the two lengths of grass and nail them down on the ground from both ends. Peel the tape out and carefully turn each piece of grass back into position, making sure the grass fibres do not make contact with the adhesive or get buried. Ensure there is good contact between the grass and adhesive by carefully walking along the join to ensure contact (TIP: place your unopened bags of kiln dried sand along the length of the join to further aid adhesion). Finally, allow the adhesive sufficient time to cure (between 2–24 hours, depending on weather conditions).

Question 8

Step 8: Cut to Size

Accepted Answer

You can cut the grass to the shape required using Stanley knife by carefully following the boundary edge to ensure a snug fit. Blades can blunt reasonably quickly so make sure you have plenty of spares.

Question 9

Step 9: Nailing

Accepted Answer

Secure the boundary perimeter using our high quality specially designed nails or U pins which fixes the artificial grass firmly. Nails or U pins should be fixed at a maximum 300mm apart.

Question 10

Step 10: Groom Your New Lawn

Accepted Answer

Lastly, sand dress your lawn with kiln dried sand to stabilise the grass and increase its durability. This step can only be carried out when the grass is completely dry as otherwise the sand will clump together. If possible, use a ‘weed-free’ kiln dried sand which can be purchased at one of the national DIY hardware stores. We recommend using 5kg per square metre. Then, using a stiff broom or power brush, brush your lawn in the opposite direction to the pile height to brush in the sand and help lift the fibres into an upright position. Finally, grab yourself a drink and admire your new prize-winning lawn!

DIY Installation Instructions

How To Do It Yourself